98+ Vinous I fully expected that Roberto Conterno would elevate quality at Nervi upon his acquisition of the winery in 2018. What I did not expect was that the change would happen so fast and that the makeover would be so extreme. A historic estate, Nervi had fallen on rough times in which quality was all over the place. Before his acquisition, Conterno had started consulting on an informal basis for the former owners, so he had a running start. Even so, the investments here have been considerable and include a new winery and a state of the art bottling line, which means Conterno owns two more of these gleaming machines than most wineries around the world. It was not that long ago that Conterno answered all phone calls himself at the family winery in Monforte. Since then, he has elevated the wines at two estates through passion, conviction and relentless drive. Just as impressively, though, Conterno has built a strong team to execute on his vision. The importance of that can’t possibly be overstated. As for the 2018 Gattinaras, they are special wines that very much merit your consideration.