The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino takes its time opening in the glass, gaining in volume and depth with each passing minute. It lifts up with citrus-tinged strawberries, rosemary, blood orange and hints of animal musk. This envelopes the palate with silken textures offset by zesty acidity and tart wild berry fruits, coming across as far more vibrant than expected. It lingers with a tart concentration and lightly grippy tannins while leaving a sour twang that I find very attractive. The 2012 is still maturing in bottle, yet quite close to peak; and if I had to hold anything against it, the finish is a bit shorter than anticipated. That said, it’s a zesty beauty. Only 24,000 bottles were made in 2012 versus the usual 50,000 through a combination of low yields and strict selection.

Castello Romitorio delivers yet another excellent set of wines from Montalcino. The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is hearty and dark with enough grit and concentration to pair with classic Tuscan cuisine including steak, game meat or smoked cheese. The mouthfeel is textured and rich. Vibrant fruit and dark tones of black currant, plum, spice and pipe tobacco characterize the bouquet. This is a contemporary Brunello that also flaunts its Tuscan roots and it authentic personality. It delivers on all of the promises you'd expect from a complete and classic Brunello.